The Isles of Scilly are made for hopping. Five inhabited islands sit within a few miles of each other, linked by small boats that chug between St Mary’s and the off-islands. You can spend a morning on a wild beach, have lunch in a harbour café, and be back on a different island by tea. But this is not a hop-on, hop-off city bus. Boats are seasonal, weather can cancel sailings, and the timetable rewards a little planning. This guide covers how to get there, how to move between islands, what tickets to ask for, and when to visit.
Both routes land on St Mary’s, the main island. The Scillonian III ferry sails from Penzance to Hugh Town harbour. It takes a few hours and carries passengers, luggage, and bicycles. The crossing can be lively when the Atlantic is in a mood; if you are prone to seasickness, book a flight instead or come prepared. The ferry is often the better choice if you have a lot of luggage or want to take a bike.
Skybus flights connect St Mary’s with Land’s End, Newquay, and Exeter. Land’s End is the shortest hop. Flights are quick and give you a view of the archipelago, but baggage limits are tighter and fog or strong winds can ground them. The ferry can also be cancelled in rough weather. Neither option is immune to the Atlantic, so build flexibility into your plans.
Hugh Town wraps around the harbour. This is where the ferry docks, and where inter-island boats leave from the quay. If you arrive by plane, it is a short transfer from the airport. If you are day-tripping, you can walk from the ferry to the boat pontoon in minutes. If you are staying, use St Mary’s as your base for groceries, cash, and information. The tourist information centre and local boat operators can confirm times. Pick up a tide table if you plan to walk to Gugh or explore causeways. St Mary’s itself deserves a day: the coastal path, beaches, and ancient sites are all within easy reach.
Most inter-island boats run from St Mary’s harbour to Tresco, Bryher, St Agnes, and St Martin’s. In summer, there are several sailings a day to the busier islands. In spring and autumn, schedules thin out. In winter, some routes run only on certain days, if at all. The boats are small passenger ferries, not car ferries. You can usually take a bicycle if there is space, but ask when you book.
Tickets are often bought on the quay before departure, but in peak season it is wise to reserve. Some operators sell day returns; others offer multi-island passes that let you hop between several islands over a set period. Ask at the harbour or your accommodation what is available during your stay. Sunday services can be limited, and the last boat back is not a suggestion.
For travel from the mainland, you can book ferry or flight as a return, or mix the two. Flying out and sailing back is a popular way to see the islands from the air and the sea, and it can be arranged when you book. Through tickets that combine train travel to Penzance with the ferry may also be available from some rail stations; ask when booking.
For inter-island travel, tickets are usually per journey or per day. If you plan to visit three or more islands, ask about a rover ticket or multi-island pass. These are not always advertised, so it pays to ask. Keep your tickets somewhere safe, and check whether your pass covers luggage or bicycles. Book popular trips, such as a day on Tresco, ahead of time in July and August.
Spring is a lovely time. The islands are quiet, the flower fields are working, and seabirds are nesting. Some inter-island services may be limited in early spring, so check timetables before you book. Summer brings the warmest weather and the fullest schedule. It also brings crowds, so book accommodation, ferry, and flights months ahead. September and October are arguably the sweet spot: the sea has had all summer to warm up, the light is soft, and the pace slows. Winter is for a different kind of trip. St Mary’s remains open, but many off-island cafés and attractions close, and sailings are weather-dependent.
Whenever you come, leave a buffer day before your journey home. Fog, wind, and swell can delay boats and planes. A spare day turns a stressful dash into a relaxed last morning.
Island hopping in Scilly is not about collecting islands. It is about slowing down and letting the water set the rhythm. If you have a long weekend, base yourself on St Mary’s and choose two off-islands. If you have a week, split your stay between two islands and day-trip from there. Book the crossings you can, then leave room for the ones you discover. Check current timetables with the main travel operator and local boat services before you travel. The best trips here have a little slack in them.
Photo: X1ntao ZHOU / Pexels
